Salmon-pink; fine, steady mousse. Muted scents: vine fruits. Well-balanced, intense, vinous and structured flavour; some dry apricot here. Finely crafted though not legendary.

Full gold in colour. Great aromatic power, but soft focus: cream, orange peel, balsam.

Fine mousse; colour still a pale straw.

Full bright gold. The aromas of youth: spring flowers, citrus peels, just a hint of beeswax. The almost Rieslingesque fruit scents suggest lime.

Full yellow. Mushroomy initial scents give way to quarried stone and sweet hay. Precise and clean, but I was expecting a little more aromatic width from this fine vintage.

Rich, Byzantine gold, and splendid aromatic complexity, too: honey, honeysuckle, spring tree blossoms.

Old gold in colour. Aromas of pear and quince, but something a little funkier, too. On the palate, the usual Krug Plunge, but behind that vertiginous acidity there is wealth and depth.

Rich old gold in colour. Profoundly aromatic, even a quarter of a century later: honeysuckle, cream, peach and nectarine. Voluptuous and seductive: the aromas shimmer out of the glass.

Full gold in colour. A perfection of pale mushroom scents on the nose: close, intimate, velvety, somewhere between peeled mushroom skin and calfskin.