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Domaine Begude is a 29-ha domain in Limoux, owned by James and Katherine Kinglake. It’s in the ‘Mediterranean’ sector of Limoux, but I wouldn’t take that too literally: the vineyards are around 335 m above sea level, and this is a cool site for the Languedoc. There’s evidently great attention to technical detail here, and the wines are very clean, with prominent acidity and clearly defined lines (and some screwcap closures).

The 2010 Chardonnay Le Bel Ange This blend of Chardonnay with 14% Chenin Blanc is unoaked, hence its Vin de Pays status (all AOC Limoux wines have to be oaked). It’s refreshing and super-clean on the nose, but at just 12.3% and with relatively high acidity I find it hard and raw. Do without the oak by all means, but for my palate this is made from unripe fruit and requires an urgent infusion of crème de cassis.

The 2009 Terroir 11300 is another Vin de Pays (25% barrel fermentation this time), but at 13.3% is inching into the ripe-fruit zone. Aromatically, it is richly varietal, with a note of buttered caramel to the orchard fruit; the palate is exuberant and overt, yet with a firm acid line to support it.

With the 2007 L’Etoile we are finally into official Limoux territory: fruit from the best south-facing parcels and all barrel-fermented (in larger demi-muids, half of them new French oak). The aromas are attractive: classical creamy lime with a touch of coffee/popcorn at the very end. The palate is intense, limey, saline at the edges and rather driving in style, again with a very firm acid core to it. I wondered as I tasted if it was a blend of different picking dates, but I see from the website that this is not so (assuming the 2007 was made in the same way as the presently featured 2008). Alcohol is now 13.6%, which makes more taste sense to me. Benchmark Limoux in a modern style.

AJ Reviews: all reviews are based on unsolicited samples. Submission of a sample does not guarantee a review. If sending a sample, please use recyclable packing materials (cardboard) if possible. Reviews can be quoted provided www.andrewjefford.com is cited as source. No scores: too boring, too obsessive, too falsely precise. Coups de Coeur (a particular and possibly irrational enthusiasm) are indicated by ◊!