Colour: Clear, bright red. Aroma: Clearly different to Échézeaux, and not as winningly or freshly fruited at this stage: broader, grainier, more composed though less forthcoming. Creamed fruits; earth on the plough blade; savoury. Flavour: On the palate, the fruits are grippier than for the Échézeaux, with more tannic ruffling. The acids, meanwhile, are a touch riper and grander: more girder and less spar. The tones embrace plum and lemon as well as rasperry, and a grating of citrus pith provides some mouthwatering bitterness towards the end. The wine has intensity, purity, and spice; there’s a juiciness, too, and a grainy depth. Sweet breaths, afterwards, more than pure flavour length.