Mature, though holding well; no hint of visual decline. Aromatically grand: a sweet Havana-leaf warmth; resins and spice. Nature refined: the gentle exhalations of summer, as regular and calm as the breath of a sleeping child. On the palate, pure; deep and weighty, almost gutsy; sweet. Dazzling on every front. In terms of fruit, there is still some fresh blackcurrant, albeit with a tarry burr, though 26 years have passed since vintage. Texturally, the wine remains on stocky legs, with something to give the teeth as well as the tongue. A very lovely Latour; and a very big Latour, even now. Bottled felicity.