Dark black red. Complex, fine aromas of spice, black truffle and earth, with a faint whiff of sealing wax. None of the typical dry thyme or garrigue aromas of young Languedoc reds, but I don't miss them: this has a subtler southern enchantment. Calm, scent-freighted and harmonious. On the palate, thick-textured with fine, firm, lingering tannins. There are sweet dark fruits in evidence, too, with just a hint of fig and raisin, but lots of vivid, ripe acidity for balance. Harmonious and well-integrated; fine concentration.

This was an outstanding red wine, drunk alongside Lynch-Bages 1990 and preferred by me (though not my guests) to the Lynch. This had more grip and grunt; the Lynch was more urbane. This fine wine is certainly the greatest Languedoc red I have yet tasted. I had four bottles, of which this was the last. Anyone who owns any need not hurry to drink it, though: this has a decade ahead.