Full yellow gold; steady, swirling mousse. Elegant aromas of hazels and cream; appealing but attractively understated. Intense, concentrated, deep and penetrating, with magnificent focus and definition. Not too much autolysis, very low dosage yet perfectly ripened fruit: the end result is arrestingly well-balanced and pure. An aftertaste of honey and minerals, plus the resonance of maturity. The most complete Champagne I tasted in 2005.