Creamier and lighter in aromatic style than 2000 or 2002: these near-milky attractions are stealthy and haunting. Very pure and light-textured on the palate compared with 1998 or 2000, yet there is great length, too and that seductive synthesis of dark silk, dark fruit and dark chocolate is built into the core of its fruit. Beautifully chalky, fine-grained tannins. The balance of 2001 is much in evidence, as well-judged by nature as the touch of the concert pianist's finger on an opening chord.