Are you in London on February 29th? Would you like to taste some of Bordeaux’s greatest 1998 wines, 10 years on? If so, there are still a few places available at a Laithwaites Fine Wine dinner I will be presenting at the Goring Hotel (close to Victoria station).

The evening will begin with a glass of Pol Roger 1998, and we will then taste (before dinner) the Petit Cheval 1998 (second wine of Cheval Blanc), Ch Batailley 1998, the Pomerol legend Ch Lafleur 1998 and Ch Haut Brion 1998. The first course of marinated smoked Scottish haddock will be partnered with Ch Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 1998, and the main course of roast fillet of Leyburn venison with Ch Margaux 1998. Ch Pavie 1998 will be served with the cheeses (which will include the lovely washed-rind Oxford Isis and the magnificent aged Coolea from Ireland), and Ch Climens 1998 from halves with a brilliant trio of desserts based on Oldroyd’s forced rhubarb from the celebrated Yorkshire rhubarb triangle.

I trialled the meal and meal wines yesterday (yes, I know, tough job &c.) and was very impressed with Derek Quelch’s cooking – it was the most meltingly tender venison I have ever eaten, and the rhubarb dessert has real finesse (how often can you say that?). The Smith-Haut-Lafitte is à point; it’s a fascinating wine to look at a decade on, especially for all those who – like me — are sceptical about Sauvignon Blanc’s ability to age. Margaux was captivating, without any of the toughness said to be a feature of the wines of the Médoc in this vintage. Pavie (this was Gérard Perse’s first full vintage in charge) is exuberant and ambitious, firing the starting gun on a great decade there; and the Climens is intriguingly floral, perfect for drinking at the 10-year mark. We didn’t trial the tasting wines, but I can’t wait to discover what Haut-Brion is like, ten years on. I remember it as a glorious wine en primeur: ripe yet taut. It should now be reaching full allusiveness.

The evening begins at 7 pm; the dress code is black tie. We’ll be in the recently refurbished Archive Room at the Goring, and with 40 guests or less it will, I hope, be intimate enough for me to chat to everyone at some point in the evening. We’ll finish with enough time to get trains home, but there are special rates, too, for anyone who wants to spend a night at the hotel.

Tickets cost £375.00 each – but leap years only happen once every four years! The great Bill Baker (see previous blog entry) would have approved.

If you’d like to come along, ring Laithwaites on 0870444 8282 quoting order code 93150. You could also email the company on orders@laithwaites.co.uk or fax on 0870 444 8182. I look forward to meeting anyone who can make it. There are around 10 or 15 tickets left, so don’t delay if you fancy the idea.